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The secondary exhaust cylinder exhaust passage is heavily carbonized:
Specific reasons: The carburetor is heavily rich in oil for a long time. The long-term ignition angle of the igniter is incorrect. Long-term use of non-standard fuel. Use a blend of oils.
Inspection method: Remove the exhaust pipe, place the motorcycle on the side, scrape the exhaust port of the cylinder with a small flat screwdriver, and test the thickness of the carbon layer.
Repair method: If confirmed, remove the lower cylinder head, move the piston to the bottom dead center, and use a small flat screwdriver to shovel the carbon deposit in the cylinder head exhaust passage.
Other methods: use a plunger type carburetor. Adjust the carburetor to a lean state. Reduce the amount of lubricant used. Clean up regularly.
Inlet air filter blockage:
The specific reason: the rubber tube is bent and blocked, and the foam inside the air filter is blocked by dust, which is caused by the blockage of the intake air.
Inspection method: Find a section of very clean and unmanned road, remove the air filter intake pipe in front of the carburetor and remove it by half. Try it out.
Repair method: tidy up the intake pipe and clean the foam in the air filter. If the air filter is normal, adjust the carburetor so that it is not heavily rich.
The igniter does not give an early ignition angle:
The specific reason: the ignition advance angle is too small. The original model is 70# gasoline, and the trigger boss for installing the new flywheel is different from the previous one.
I have encountered such a flywheel, but I didn’t expect it at the time. There is also an abnormal damage to the igniter that becomes ignited at the trailing edge of the trigger boss.
However, all the old car cold start is very good, the idle speed is quite stable, the low speed start is particularly powerful, and there is a suspicion that the ignition angle can not keep up at high speed.
Inspection method: dial the flywheel to find the top dead center of the piston, and then measure the position of the trigger boss to the igniter sensor, which should be 26 to 30 degrees.
For some two-stroke or four-stroke large curved beam vehicles, static inspection triggers the boss a bit difficult; it can be seen through the performance of the engine's various speed segments.
Repair method: If you can't find the original standard flywheel, modify the trigger boss yourself, or make the "misplace" button to trigger the boss correction.
Exhaust pipe blockage:
The specific reason: the exhaust pipe is blocked by carbon deposits and ash, and the bending part of the front section of the exhaust is bumped; this type of vehicle has no problem at low speed, that is, it cannot be high speed.
Inspection method: find a good road with no road condition, disassemble the exhaust pipe, run a small section and try to compare the speed of the vehicle.
Repair method: Remove the exhaust pipe, use the sewer cleaning strand spring or the hand drill string wire rope to scrape the internal carbon deposit, or burn the carbon with a high temperature fire.
The clutch block or friction plate is severely worn:
The specific reason: the clutch block or the friction plate is seriously worn, or is pinned by the "limit nail", and cannot be close to the friction surface, which is common in old cars.
Identification method: the motorcycle is at the step of the step, and (the gear is opened) to open the large throttle start state; if the engine can also run, the clutch slips.
Repair method: Replace the clutch spring. Remove the block limit pin. Replace the friction plate or friction block. The dry clutch piece is degreased with rosin powder.
Improper adjustment of the carburetor:
The specific reason is: the high-speed lean oil caused by the blockage of the main oil volume hole. The high-speed oil rich in the main oil distribution hole is blocked by dust.
The carburetor choke is still in the cold start position. The carburetor main oil needle is not in the proper position. The carburetor has a small caliber. High-speed oil-rich due to air filter blockage.
Inspection method: Sprinkle some gasoline on the air filter foam. If you can run a high speed, it means that the carburetor has high speed and lean oil.
Look for a very clean and unmanned section, remove the air filter intake pipe in front of the carburetor, try it out; if it is cool, it is rich.
Repair method: The carburetor has more contents, and sometimes the carburetor is rich in oil due to air filtration. For details, please refer to the special post in the edition.
Camshaft mounting misalignment or linear disorder:
The specific reason: the timing of the small chain installation is misplaced, resulting in too late exhaust time. The cam axis is disordered, resulting in poor timing of intake and exhaust.
Inspection method: Disassemble the small cap that adjusts the gap of the rocker arm, move the flywheel by hand, and gradually check whether the timing of intake and exhaust is normal.
Repair method: If it is confirmed that the installation is misplaced, reinstall the camshaft. If the cam axis is disorganized, sand or re-buy.
The four-cylinder head exhaust passage is heavily carbonized:
Specific reasons: The carburetor is heavily rich in oil for a long time. The long-term ignition angle of the igniter is incorrect. Long-term use of non-standard fuel. The engine burns oil.
Inspection method: Remove the exhaust pipe, place the motorcycle on the side, use a small flat screwdriver to shovel the exhaust port of the cylinder head, and test the thickness of the carbon layer.
Repair method: If confirmed, remove the lower cylinder head, use a small flat screwdriver to clean the carbon deposit inside the cylinder head exhaust passage; and adjust the carburetor.
Alternative repair methods you can try: switch to a carburetor or adjust the carburetor to a lean state and slowly burn off the carbon deposit.
The belt pulley is severely worn:
The specific reason: After the belt pulley is worn, a very special "entrainment" phenomenon occurs, which makes the engine run particularly hard and the speed of the vehicle is not going up.
Identification method: Disassemble the belt and check if there is any gap between the belt pulley and the bushing. If the belt pulley flutters more than four millimeters, it is.
Repair method: It is very difficult to repair it yourself. It is usually changed after the identification is clear; you need to be careful when you change it! I often buy refurbished old ones.
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